For many woodworkers, the tablesaw is considered the heart of the shop. This tool allows for very quick and accurate cuts. It will allow for rip cuts, crosscuts, angled cuts, miters, and dados.The tool can be intimidating for new woodworkers and is dangerous if used improperly.
Tablesaw (Saw) – A tablesaw has a circular blade mounted under a flat surface. The blade is driven by a motor and wood is pushed over the surface table through the spinning blade.
Types
Table saws typically fit into three general categories, bench top, contractor, and cabinet saws. Many woodworkers will start with a smaller bench top or contractor saw, then later as their woodworking hobby evolves, upgrade to a cabinet saw.
Bench-top table saw – A bench top tablesaw is a smaller saw than others. They are typically light enough for one person to set up and haul around. The motors use brushes which are louder than more expensive motors. Furthermore the motor’s power can’t handle as much thick hardwood as more powerful saws. Table sizes are smaller and often will not accept aftermarket fences. The price range for a new benchtop saw can vary from $100 to $400.
Contractor Saw – The next step up from a bench top is a contractor saw. This saw weighs around 200 to 300 pounds and is much quieter do to it’s induction motor. The motor is separate from the arbor (axel) where the blade is mounted and connected by a pulley. This allows two benefits over the bench top models which mount the blade directly to the motor. First it reduces vibration of the entire tool. Second it allows the blade to raise up higher than the bench-top saw by an eighth to a quarter inch. This model of saw can still be a touch under-powered on thick hardwood cuts compared to the cabinet saw, but it is vastly improved over a bench top model. With a contractor saw, you have more choices for table surface and can accept after market fences.
Cabinet Saws – A cabinet saw is the most heavy duty table saw for your shop. The motor assembly is enclosed in a cabinet meaning can take up a smaller footprint than a contractor saw, but the tabletop can be much more significant in size. The saws are over 450 pounds and require a 220 volt outlet (in the US). The entire assembly for the saw is much stronger than those for contractor or benchtop saws. The blade can be adjusted with much more accuracy and can provide an excellent cut.
Use
The following 5 minute guide to using a tablesaw is a fantastic guide that covers the basics of how to safely use a tablesaw.
Safety
A tablesaw should always be used with flat material referencing against either the fence or using the miter gauge. Never both and never freehand. There is a real danger of kickback on the tablesaw. This typically occurs when material twists, rubs, catches, or otherwise pinches the back of the blade where it is moving up above the surface of the table. Then once the material has risen to the top of the blade it is launched directly forward.
Always use safety gear such as splitters, riving knives, pushsticks, and featherboards when possible. A well built sled will help stabilize wood as you move it through the tablesaw. Hearing protection, eye protection, and dust protection are very important with this machine. Keep all long hair tied back and do not wear loose fitting sleeves.
Like most woodworking tools, this one does not have a brain. You will need to use your own.
Tablesaw Jigs and Sleds
- Crosscut Sled
- Panel Sled
- Miter Sled
- Tenoning Jig
- Circle Cutting Jig
- Box Joint Jig